Tuesday, June 28, 2011


As my treatment is coming to an end, I thought this would be an interesting piece to read.  You go to your to doctor and you find out that he just came back from climbing Mount Mckinley in Alaska.  Well, it happened to me!  Its an amazing thing to hear what passion your doctor has for healing people and also climbing.  See attached article that was in the local Mexican paper, of course I translated to English.

Another successful test

To Anaya was the first expedition of great magnitude since amputated six toes freezing in his ascent of Mount Everest, also represented the fourth of the seven highest summits per continent . The lawyer had a thorn in the McKinley climb, and found a good partner in Dr. García de León.

Carlos Aguirre Barajas

Smooth freezing or inclement weather, Ignacio Anaya and Juan Manuel Garcia de Leon successfully completed the expedition to Mount McKinley in Alaska, the coldest mountain in the world. They were fortunate to get to summit on a windless day, but with an unfortunate encounter with death.

To Anaya was the first expedition of great magnitude since amputated six toes freezing in his ascent of Mount Everest, also represented the fourth of the seven highest summits per continent. The lawyer by profession was a thorn to climb McKinley, and found a good partner in Dr. García de León.

"Fortunately I went to a doctor healthy, join a guarantee from people who know the environment and the problems that may arise, and know how to identify symptoms of health problems," said Anaya.

Garcia de Leon is not new to climbing, has 21 years of practice, but found no companion for an expedition like this, until he received an invitation from Anaya.

"I have the condition with Ignacio, but I have strength for long walks," said the doctor, "what I did was soak up information and discuss the route we were going to rise, based on that you start training, data as graphs of calories, workouts, exercise bike, gym, walking up and load the weight Rumorosa in walks five to six hours and twenty or thirty kilos in the backpack to go to strengthen the ankles, "he said.

After five months of planning and training, departed on May 27 where the mercury recorded temperatures of 35 degrees below zero. Ignatius did not hesitate to take precautions, used new shoes, locals recommend using neoprene coating and used four pairs of socks. To promote circulation, consumed garlic.

West Buttress route taken, a path with the presence of rangers and the busiest in the absence of potentially dangerous technical steps

"Although it has two exposed areas such as Denali Pass and the area of cracks between the camp and the camp two three, we chose that route to be more defined, not to be so far away, as in other routes. Also enjoy beautiful landscapes, "said Anaya.

The Baja California had no problems, however, witnessed a death. Brian Young, Brian Young, a businessman originally from Alaska, was on an expedition that was aborted by the leader's health problems Young decided to continue without his group and joined Garcia de Leon Anaya. He accepted the pace of Mexicans to pursue his dream of 25 years, to climb McKinley. García de León, a physician, noticed some signs that something was wrong.

He left the bag on a flat surface to rest and said returning to base camp to swim in the hotel, and consistency was not what he said.

"I began to question, asked him where was his name, the names of his sons and said everything was apparently normal," he told Dr. García de León, "later told me 'I was hesitating,' then I did not know if it was true We decided to go and half of the slope staggered. "

They decided to use protective ropes and calm to talk and see the welfare of Young, reaching the summit at 1:40 am, in a world where there is quite dark and the sun is seen as if the sunset. After taking photos of fact, Young had vomiting that was credited to energy drinks I was consuming. On the descent down three times, and the string saved him from death by accident at Denali Pass.

Returning to Camp Five, had passed 18 hours of walking, they came to rest in separate tents. Young, who was installed along with some boys, suffered breathing problems and died. . Yet the body down when Anaya Garcia de Leon departed and had to break the news to the family.

"It is understood that in this sport often happens, many people will not come back, sometimes by a simple accident. I was aware there was a risk, we never imagined would happen, it is amazing, "Garcia de Leon.

"We saw a whole person, never thought it was sick. It's very hard to go back and break the news to their peers, talk with your child. When there is an accident, no logical explanation is more complicated to explain to the family. It touched me to see someone die so strong unnoticed. Leaves a great reflection on what can happen, especially the value of life, we must know each other very well and learn to not take unnecessary risks, "explained Anaya.

Speaking of that, you are more expeditions?

"Yes," replied laughing, "we will continue to escalate, I do not know which dates will be born a daughter in July, so I'll be busy. I have a list of remaining in Canada, Alaska and Bolivia, also I have an eye on the other eight thousand in the Himalayas. "

The expedition to McKinley was closely followed picacheros.com.mx through the portal, a community of enthusiastic climbers to climb Picacho del Diablo Anaya had a chance to climb the highest point of Baja California with Picacheros, including Eduardo Martínez Palomera Angel, who completed seven peaks in May to successfully climb Mount Everest along with John Glenn and Rick Salter, who also completed seven peaks. Martinez spoke with ZETA from Queretaro about how his career was in the mountains.

"In 1996 a friend, engineer Benjamin Cortez (RIP), invited me to climb Picacho del Diablo. It helped me to train in nearby mountains and along with other friends did peak in May of that year. . Continue climbing that peak several years and in 2002 I invited some friends to climb Mount Whitney in California In 2003 I was with John Glenn and Rick Salter a course in mountaineering to Mount Rainier in Washington. In 2004 we climbed Iztaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba twice each It was when we decided to do the seven summits. "

- As for John and Rick, how they decided to climb together? Especially because it is not the first time they do ...

"I invited them up to the peak in 2000, Whitney and then decide together what followed. We are entrepreneurs and before we were friends, because together we take some courses in business administration. "

Martinez completed the circuit a year with a mountain: Aconcagua in 2005, then Elbrus, McKinley, Kilimanjaro, Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid and, finally, Everest in May this year.

"I would climb other mountains of over eight thousand meters in the Himalayas, but the risk is high and the family is not quite agree . At the moment I am finishing a book on the Seven Summits, but I'm not climb another mountain decides next year. "

- Being a businessman and you consider the cost of the expeditions, climbing is tilted ¿people of a certain economic or social status?

"You can say it is a limiting factor, but much of that scale get sponsorships from companies or the government. . Whoever wants to go, and it does not move, "he said.

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